Day 85-90
23rd -28th Febuary 2007, Ghana	previous entry next entry

Day Eighty Five 23/2. Senchi River Resort, Akosombo, Ghana

6°13.17'N 0°05.35'E. Miles today 74, Total Miles 8142

Oh my word, those were the best pizzas ever. And I just thought I'd mention that Rob couldn't actually finish his. Those who know him will know that that NEVER happens. Man, the guy has changed! Drove back in anticipation to the Nigerian Embassy this morning. Well, luck was our side, as we were in and out of there in less than four minutes with visas in check. Hurrah! The plan now, is to apply for our 7-day transit visas for Togo at the border but we still need one for Benin. By now, it was too late in the day to apply for these Benin visas so, instead of facing another 3 days alongside the smelly sewer, we opted to drive north for the weekend and headed towards the Aburi Gardens. Not quite Kew/Kirstenbosch Gardens but they were nonetheless lovely and a welcome escape from the chaos of Accra below. Sadly the views escaped us due to the hazy mist in the air. Knowing that a bushcamp is hard to come by, we just took a chance and kept driving. Just before Akosombo, we saw a sign for the Senchi River Resort and thought we'd try our luck. The manager said we could camp in the carpark if we ate in the restaurant or gave a small donation. The food was so yummy and the beer was cold, we couldn't resist. A nice cool night in laid back place.

Day Eighty Six 24/2. Waterfall Lodge, Wli, Ghana

7°06.95'N 0°35.32'E. Miles today 106, Total Miles 8248

Stopped in Akosombo on Lake Volta, to marvel at the world's largest man made lake. Amazing that the country still has all these electricity supply problems with this massive source of power right here. We carried on north and on route to the Wli waterfalls, we stopped for our usual breakfast snack of Bomfruits (the fried doughnut type things) and I bought an enormous paw-paw for just 30c. The waterfalls were lovely. There is a craft stall in the carpark with some pretty nice carvings and masks and the guy is real friendly and honest. We didn't buy anything but regret it now, as his prices seemed reasonable and he was willing to bargain hard. To get to the falls, you walk through tropical jungle for about half an hour and we opted for no guide, as you really don't need one. After an icy and refreshing swim beneath them, we searched for a place to stay. There's a lodge next door called the Waterfall lodge, run by a German guy , which is a welcoming oasis. We camped on the front lawn for €2 each with wonderful views of the mountains and falls. There's a huge pagoda, which we spent the afternoon chilling out under talking to a couple of volunteers from England. Got to hear all the truths and dramas about volunteering. These poor girls were having a hard time. Been dumped alone in a village with a family that doesn't speak English and been fed boiled yam every night. What a laugh! The lodge does serve what looked like yummy food eagerly received by deprived volunteers but we have eaten out so much in Accra, we just made some fried rice and were treated to another cool and peaceful night.

Day Eighty Seven 25/2. Aylos Bay, Akosombo, Ghana

6°14.60'N 0°05.50'E. Miles today 0, Total Miles 8023

After the most delicious paw-paw for breakfast, chilled lovingly overnight in our now well-appreciated Engel fridge, we went off in search for the village of Amedzofe. It's a good place to walk to the summit of Mt Gemi, which hosts spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, jungle, coffee and cocoa plantations. This was not an easy task, as Ghanaians have the habit of putting up road signs but with the most obscure and unhelpful town/village names on them. Anyway, after the now all too familiar shouts of "hey, obrunis, where are you going?" we asked the locals and found the road no problem. The drive up there on a surprisingly good road is stunning and it's a short, easy walk up to the summit but our promised views were clouded over by this hazy mist. Such a pity, as I imagine it would have been spectacular. We sat up there in the cool breeze for a while listening to the people in the churches below go mad with song and dance on this Sunday morning. Drove back towards Akosombo and stopped at Aylos Bay Resort, where we could camp for €2.50 each. It's a great place, right on the river, with a nice bar serving ice-cold Star beer, friendly staff and nice loos and showers. What more could an overlander wish for? Oh ja, and we've eaten that entire paw-paw in one day!

Day Eighty Eight 26/2. Ryans Irish Pub, Accra, Ghana

5°35.45'N 0°10.83'W. Miles today 64, Total Miles 8413

The manager came over to check how the "obrunis" were this morning and if we had a good night's sleep. Wish we could stay longer but sigh, guess, it's back to the smelly sewer again. Arrived back in Accra fairly early so stopped off at the Benin embassy. So weird to have to start speaking French all over again. After numerous mutterings and mumblings of "un visa si vous plait," together with the odd bit of sign language he said they would be ready in 3 hours and cost 10 000 CFA's for a 15 day visa. Decided to stay on in Accra anyway for the night and so wandered around the Koala supermarket carefully choosing some essentials for the next few days. Whatever will power I showed here, soon disappeared as we both gave in to Bangers and Mash and Steak and Guiness Pie in the Irish Bar. I know, I know but we did spend four nights here and felt we should probably eat here. Well, that was our reasoning anyway. Worth every mouthful by the way!

Day Eighty Nine 27/2. Comme Ici, New Ningo, Ghana

5°43.87'N 0°09.54'E. Miles today 39, Total Miles 8452

Gonna take a slow drive towards Togo and enjoy our last few days in Ghana. Drove along the coast and stopped at the Comme Ici Beach Resort in Ningo near Pramm Pramm. The beach isn't great for swimming but it's a nice enough place. We agreed on a price of 90c each for camping, as they have no showers and very basic trough loos. It is a really weird place; perhaps it was a lot more special in its heyday. The staff are obviously all very bored and so become a little intrusive and pester you a lot. They all want your address and phone number and want you to write them letters to come to England. It was such a lovely romantic spot and all we wanted was to be left alone. Poor Rob actually had to be quite rude at one point, just so we could have some privacy. Still, it worked and they left us alone for the rest of the night…..until the morning of course.

Day Ninety 28/2. New Estuary Beach Club, Ada Foah, Ghana

5°46.29'N 0°39.82'E. Miles today 49, Total Miles 8501

Woke to the sounds of small children climbing the palm trees and knocking the coconuts down. Joe came over and gave us two as a gift, which made us feel pretty guilty for shunning him away last night. But pretty soon we were invaded again. So, we packed up camp and headed further along the coast towards Ada. All the volunteers we have meant have recommended this place called the Estuary Beach Club near Ada, only accessible by 4WD along a beach (or by boat or walk!) Having only one bar of pressure left in each tyre and Rob loving every minute of driving in sand again, we arrived and wow, it's even more romantic than last night. The river on one side and the rolling surf on the other. Okay, the beach is a little dirty with litter and there's a small risk of bilharzia in the lake but hey, this is Africa and it's still a super spot and Madame Pat who runs the joint is a charming hostess. They have huts to rent but we camped amongst the palm trees for €1.80 each. Watch out for the crabs. Rob put his machete to good use and we cracked open the coconuts we were given. Think it's time for another BBQ with some Red-Red and plantains tonight to celebrate our last night in Ghana. It's off to the voodoo land of Togo tomorrow!

Day 85-90

23rd -28th Febuary 2007, Ghana